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- ACE Package - Nose Bowl and Mounting Kit (Part 3 of 4)
ACE Package - Nose Bowl and Mounting Kit (Part 3 of 4)
SKU:
SFC 00K
$2,770.00
$2,770.00
Unavailable
per item
This is a fiberglass nose bowl (picture coming soon) and top center cowl along with the required supporting structure and hardware. This can also be used on any 912is, 914, but you must use all four kits.
Step 1:
ONLY Cut hole in nose-bowl (5.5" maximum Diameter centered on the round aproximatly10 inch circle)
After the nose bowl has been cut with the 5.5" hole, it is ready to fit with the Skytek nose bowl positioning kit (purchased separately as an option) which positions your nose bowl at the correct position up and down in relation to your crankshaft and positioning in relation to your radiators. (If you have already installed your radiators you can cut out the FLAT part where the radiators fit. You can then trim additional fiberglass away nose bowl material away until you have a 1/8 to 3/16" clearance making sure you KEEP YOUR NOSE BOWL LEVEL) As a bonus the positioner kit maintains the correct angle and clearance for the spinner when using a MT Propeller. (may work with others but do not know.
After your nose bowl is held in place, rotate to level the top. Use a straight edge to determine position and make a wood block to hold the aft edge of the nose bowl to an elevation as shown on the next pictures.
Measure and mark top skin at 30 13/16" from nose bowl on each side of your cutout. Run a tape line down to the lower side skin. This is your cut / trim line. Cut upper skin by removing approximately 1/4" going to nothing on the outside. On older aircraft kits you may not need to trim a thing.
Step 2:
Center support doubler is to be installed at this time. # 40 hole pattern similar to picture below should be incorporated at each end of the doubler. Pick up existing holes for the Zenair center cover that encloses the two bars coming up out of the dash. These rivet holes should be dimpled and flush riveted. See below for details.
Position reinforcement strip UNDER the top dash cowl skin on center and attach. Front narrow end should be even with the skin at a distance of 30 13/16" aft of fiberglass nose bowl when bowl is positioned correctly.
This is how to dimple and rivet without a riveting gun and equipment. Shown is for a movable part. you will need someone to help you for a stationary part by having them hold the steel block in place. (A RV builder near you can easily assist you with this as they do this millions of times and will have the proper equipment.)
Step 3:
Line up the front of the fiberglass top center cowl to the nose bowl (aft-center). Clamp in place.
In order to clamp this in place, you will need to trim the aft vertical angles of the fiberglass top center cowl as shown below:
Again, BE SURE your top center cowl is centered before trimming.
Again, BE SURE your top center cowl is centered before trimming.
As shown in the diagram below, both anchor nut support channels have slight angles cut on the aft ends. This is a view looking down on the LH support channel.
Clamp the U-channel support under the fiberglass top cowl and make sure that you allow for the wings of the anchor nut by making the U-channel stick out farther than the top center cowl as shown below. Drill with a #10 drill bit.
Install anchor nut to inside of U-channel as shown in the image to the right:
Install anchor nut to inside of U-channel as shown in the image to the right:
Mark and drill #30 holes in the C-channel as shown in the photos below except for center screw hole:
- Remove the top fiberglass center cowl from the aircraft and loosely attach the U-channels to the bottom of the fiberglass cowl with the screw into the installed anchor nut. Do not tighten, allowing for enough space for the shim to fit (Shim will be forward of the dotted line above). Clamp.
Back drill two #30 holes through the shim and into the fiberglass top cowl. not the center hole as it will be picked up when fitting side cowling.
Back drill two #30 holes through the shim and into the fiberglass top cowl. not the center hole as it will be picked up when fitting side cowling.
- Countersink the screw hole in the fiberglass top cowl only with a 100 degree countersink.
- Rivet through U-channel, shim, and fiberglass with supplied A rivets in the two end holes only (Middle hole will be picked up later with either a screw or a SkyBolt fastener on side cowl installation).
This is a view looking forward at the center support structure. The top flange on both right and left hand side will pick up with a screw on each and an anchor nut on the botttom of the metal flange so that it can be attached to the fiberglass center cowl section.
The bottom angle (2"x1.5" angle) attaches on right and left hand bottom side with adel clamps to the engine mount. Located just aft of the engine mount rubbers.
Do this while these two parts are lightly clamped together as shown and anchor nuts and screws are holding the fiberglass center section to the top of the triangular support.
Before you drill the two holes mounting the triangular support to the bottom angle, be sure that you have clearance between the engine intake box and the top center cowl (3/8" minimum). If you do not have that clearance, you can trim the vertical flanges on the top center cowl down to 1/2" approximately of finished height. You may require a wedge to keep everything flat before drilling the bottom two holes in the triangular piece through the bottom angle. Once you are satisfied, drill the two holes and bolt together.
Do this while these two parts are lightly clamped together as shown and anchor nuts and screws are holding the fiberglass center section to the top of the triangular support.
Before you drill the two holes mounting the triangular support to the bottom angle, be sure that you have clearance between the engine intake box and the top center cowl (3/8" minimum). If you do not have that clearance, you can trim the vertical flanges on the top center cowl down to 1/2" approximately of finished height. You may require a wedge to keep everything flat before drilling the bottom two holes in the triangular piece through the bottom angle. Once you are satisfied, drill the two holes and bolt together.
Once you have located the two holes for the triangular center support, you can trim off excess from the corners as shown:
Step 4:
- Install two anchor nuts on each 4130 bracket, then install brackets into side C-channel supports. Install forward screw ONLY.
- Install stainless steel support rods attaching from the engine mount to the bracket installed on the inside of the C-channel as per the photos below:
Left-Hand Side:
Right-Hand Side: View looking forward
LH Side looking aft LH side looking aft & inboard.
Step 5:
These photos show the LH side installation of the C-channels attaching to the nose bowl:
(Do right and left hand aft sides before drilling into nose bowl.) Attach with clamps and double check level of nose bowl before drilling the nose bowl.
(Do right and left hand aft sides before drilling into nose bowl.) Attach with clamps and double check level of nose bowl before drilling the nose bowl.
The measurement from fuselage skin to the edge of the nose bowl (written as 28.5" in the photo below) is approximate and will vary depending on how you trimmed your front edge of your skin. (Typically the right hand side is 1/8" shorter than the left side due to engine positioning). Drill forward 2 #10 holes through nose bowl and side U-channels, on each side. Cleco as you go.
- Drill remaining aft holes with #40 drill bit through the side skin and u-channel. Be sure not to drill too high so as to be behind the vertical flange of the C channel.
- Anchor nuts can now be installed in the forward two holes in the C-channels. The front of C channels can be cut off shorter so as to get rid of excess material and make them fit the nose bowl better.
Step 6 - Splitting the Nose-Bowl:- Mark the center line of your nose-bowl from top to bottom.
- Cut out the radiator air duct openings from the nose bowl. Leave as much sidewall material as possible during this step as you will be trimming it later to fit to your radiators. |
Below the 5.5" Hole:
Mark the cut line 1/2" to the left hand side of the aircraft below the 5.5" cut out you made in Step 1. |
Above the 5.5" hole:
Above the 5.5" hole, the cut line should be marked .3" away from the center line and should then follow the left hand side of the ridge section as per the photos below: |
- Once your cut line has been clearly marked and you are satisfied that your lines are straight and neat, cut using a hacksaw or saw of your choice.
Step 7:
- Bend and fit the nose bowl splices to the nose bowl as shown in the images below. You will trim them to length and drill in the next steps.
- Using the patterns provided in your kit, follow those instructions to mark, cut, drill, and fit your nose bowl splices.
Notes:
- The large holes under the orange lines shown below are to be cut out on the paper ONLY and are a guide for aligning the paper pattern up to the bends on your metal splices.
- On step I, install the anchor nuts.
- Countersink all holes in fiberglass with 100 degree countersink to allow for flush rivet installation. Do not over-countersink.
Notes:
- The large holes under the orange lines shown below are to be cut out on the paper ONLY and are a guide for aligning the paper pattern up to the bends on your metal splices.
- On step I, install the anchor nuts.
- Countersink all holes in fiberglass with 100 degree countersink to allow for flush rivet installation. Do not over-countersink.
Step 8:
- Using the center line on the top of your nose-bowl, align the anchor nut center holes in the stainless steel piece on that line.
- Drill #10 holes using the stainless steel piece as a guide.
- Drill #10 holes using the stainless steel piece as a guide.
- Install anchor nuts on the stainless steel piece and then screw to the nose bowl cowl half to hold in place.
- Set your gap between the two nose bowl halves, clamp, and drill through the stainless piece for rivets.
- Again, countersink fiberglass for flush rivets. Do not over-countersink.
- Rivet in place.
- Set your gap between the two nose bowl halves, clamp, and drill through the stainless piece for rivets.
- Again, countersink fiberglass for flush rivets. Do not over-countersink.
- Rivet in place.
Step 9:
- Upsize the following hole to a #10 drill size.
- Install the doubler you just drilled onto your nose bowl, placing it on top of the top center cowl that you installed in previous steps.
- Drill the two holes marked in the photo below with #10 drill bit.
- Then dimple the stainless steel on those two holes, and countersink the fiberglass to match. This will allow for a flush screw.
- Install anchor nuts to the back side of the fiberglass center cowl.
- Drill the two holes marked in the photo below with #10 drill bit.
- Then dimple the stainless steel on those two holes, and countersink the fiberglass to match. This will allow for a flush screw.
- Install anchor nuts to the back side of the fiberglass center cowl.
- This photo is temporary as you can see many parts are not shown. However, this is the hole that should be drilled next with a #10 through the fiberglass (nose bowl), both stainless doublers, and the fiberglass center cowling.
Remove the nosebowl, center top cowl and loose doubler.
- Install anchor nuts on the three holes you drilled through your top center cowl.
- With the parts on a bench or the floor, screw the two nose bowl halves together with the small loose doubler in position (held with the one screw in the front).
- Attach the top center cowl using the three screws.
- Mark and drill for two more anchor nuts as shown in the images below.
- Drill two #40 holes as marked with two arrows as shown below:
- Countersink holes as necessary.
- Rivet anchor nuts to fiberglass piece only.
- the two #40 holes can have rivets installed through the nose bowl half.
- Install anchor nuts on the three holes you drilled through your top center cowl.
- With the parts on a bench or the floor, screw the two nose bowl halves together with the small loose doubler in position (held with the one screw in the front).
- Attach the top center cowl using the three screws.
- Mark and drill for two more anchor nuts as shown in the images below.
- Drill two #40 holes as marked with two arrows as shown below:
- Countersink holes as necessary.
- Rivet anchor nuts to fiberglass piece only.
- the two #40 holes can have rivets installed through the nose bowl half.
Step 10:Now it's time to install your cowling to nose bowl joining strips.
- Mark the forward outboard side of all your strips at 1" from the front. This line matches the back edge of the nosebowl when installed. - In preparation for your cowling fasteners and crimping, Mark your nosebowl at ~5" spacing starting from two inches from the centerline of the top center cowl, ending with the final holes being one inch above the C-channel horizontal nose bowl supports on either side. There should be 6 equal spaced marks on each side for the top joining strips. - Starting with a mark on the center of the C-channels, mark three additional fasteners between the c-channel and the corner of the nose bowl on each side; the bottom mark being one inch from the corner. - Mark five more evenly spaced marks on the bottom flat portion of the nose bowl with one being on the center line in line with the screws for the split front nose bowl. |
Step 11:
As shown in the below photo, remove the nosebowl edge c-channel screw and slip the bottom joining strips in between the nosebowl and the c-channel as shown. Clamp the bottom with the line barely showing from under the nosebowl and the vertical crease should be in line with the nosebowl edge as well.
- In order to do this, you will have to add some crimps in the aft edge of the joining strips to allow for a curve to form. Do not crimp in line with where you have marked your nosebowl for screws as any crimps in line with a fastener will cause issues when installing the nuts later. You can see this in the photo below, crimps have been added in between the marked ANUT (Anchor nut) locations.
- In order to do this, you will have to add some crimps in the aft edge of the joining strips to allow for a curve to form. Do not crimp in line with where you have marked your nosebowl for screws as any crimps in line with a fastener will cause issues when installing the nuts later. You can see this in the photo below, crimps have been added in between the marked ANUT (Anchor nut) locations.
Using a straightedge, hold it against both the fuselage of the aircraft and the nose bowl. Crimp the joining strips until they are parallel with the straight edge as shown in the two comparisons below. The joining strips need to be crimped so that they are parallel with the straight edge all the way up. The new strips require almost no crimping compared to what is shown.
Step 12:
- Mark out for rivets 1/2" in from the back edge of the nose bowl at one inch increments starting with the first hole just under the c-channels. This may be easier with 1/2" tape to use as a guide. Its easy to draw on and easy to remove. Use good quality automotive masking tape for best results. Home painters tape does not stick well enough in my opinion.
- Mark the hole for the screw you removed in step 11.
- Drill and cleco your marked holes with a #40 drill bit. Leave the intersecting hole where the two joining strips meet at the bottom center of the nose bowl.
- Mark the hole for the screw you removed in step 11.
- Drill and cleco your marked holes with a #40 drill bit. Leave the intersecting hole where the two joining strips meet at the bottom center of the nose bowl.
Step 13:
Once your joining strips have been clecoed onto your nose bowl, you will notice that they need to be joggled to fit over the nose bowl halves joining strip. Mark the position of the riveted joining strip on the clecoed joining strip and then draw a line 1/8" bigger around that one as shown.
Duplicate the inside line on the opposite side of the piece. Place the small triangle of metal (provided in your kit) on that inside line and tape in place. Tape the L-shaped metal piece on the other side lining up with the outside line you drew above. Tape in place.
Verify that when this has been clamped together, the bend will go in the right direction.
- Clamp in a vice with a couple pieces of angle iron or thicker aluminum so that there is a good amount of surface area. Tighten until you can't tighten it anymore (by hand). Release the vice and remove the joggling tools.
Verify that when this has been clamped together, the bend will go in the right direction.
- Clamp in a vice with a couple pieces of angle iron or thicker aluminum so that there is a good amount of surface area. Tighten until you can't tighten it anymore (by hand). Release the vice and remove the joggling tools.
- Drill the remaining rivet hole in the left hand side joining strip (at the bottom center of the nosebowl).
- Mark and drill for an anchor nut on the right-hand side joining strip in line with the rest of the screws holding the two nosebowl halves together. The photo below shows this anchor nut installed.
- Drill the marked screw hole circled in Step 11 with #10 drill bit.
- Mark and drill for an anchor nut on the right-hand side joining strip in line with the rest of the screws holding the two nosebowl halves together. The photo below shows this anchor nut installed.
- Drill the marked screw hole circled in Step 11 with #10 drill bit.
Countersink and rivet all rivets in the nosebowl and joining strips
Step 14:
Once the bottom joining strips are finished, start on the top strips. This is done the exact same way (Follow steps 10-12).
- Countersink and rivet all rivets in the nosebowl top joining strips. Start this at the bottom and work your way up and inboard.
- Countersink and rivet all rivets in the nosebowl top joining strips. Start this at the bottom and work your way up and inboard.
While following step 10 for the top joining strips, you will need to mark out your spacing for cowling fasteners on your instrument panel to cowling skin (the fasteners should be ~1/2" aft of the edge)
This is because you will need to crimp the instrument panel to cowling skin as shown in the images below to allow for 1" of parallel skin for attaching your ACE cowlings to the Zenith skin.
This is because you will need to crimp the instrument panel to cowling skin as shown in the images below to allow for 1" of parallel skin for attaching your ACE cowlings to the Zenith skin.
This photo shows the end of step 12 on the top right joining strip.
NOTE Your upper joining strips will not go all the way to the top. On the Lh side trim so you do not have a sharp edge when reaching for your radiator water cap. On the Rh side cut off at an angle so you do not impale yourself on the sharp end at any time. Do this after your side cowl attachment fasteners are installed so you do not cut off too much.
Step 15 installation of Naca scoop
Place self explanatory paper template on Rh side Nose bowl as shown. Drill corners with #40. Cut out template and mark cut line on nose bowl. Cut out nose bowl and install duct.
Scoop and deflector go on the underside of the nose bowl. This can be fiber glassed in and or riveted in.
This is finished when fiber glassed in.